Questions

Three. The standard 1A cube for full-size yo-yos, an oversized 4A cube for offstring throws, and a larger box sized for a kendama. All three are designed to line up in the same grid, so you can mix sizes in one wall.

If you play or collect standard 1A yo-yos, the 1A cube is the one — with the caveat that unusually wide throws, much over 60 mm wide, may be a tight fit. Offstring 4A throws are bigger again and need the 4A cube. Kendamas need the kendama box.

The 4A cube is a standard item — order it the same way as the 1A. The kendama box is printed on request rather than kept as a standard size, so email us first: kendama sizing varies a lot between makers, and we would rather confirm the fit against what you actually own than guess.

Exact figures being finalised.

The 1A cube is built around standard 1A sizing, which covers the large majority of modern throws. The one caveat: it is the depth of the cube that runs out first, so the dimension that matters is your yo-yo's width, not its diameter. Throws much over 60 mm wide may not sit well. If yours are near that, the oversized 4A cube is the better pick — or just ask us.

Around 60 mm of width is where it starts getting tight, because that is roughly the depth the cube has to give. Most standard 1A yo-yos sit comfortably below that — it is wide competition shapes and offstring throws that run into it. If you are unsure, tell us the model and we will say plainly whether it works rather than let you find out after it arrives.

Yes, and it usually looks better than a single colour. Every part in every colour shares the same geometry, so a black connector on a white cube fits exactly as well as a white one. Mixed packs cost the same as single-colour packs.

The geometry will always match — that is the one promise the system is built on, and it is why there will never be a "version 2" cube. Colour is the honest caveat: filament batches can shift very slightly over time, so if an exact match matters for a visible run, order those cubes together.

Singles finish an outside corner of the grid. Doubles join two cubes along a shared edge. Four-corner connectors sit at the interior junctions where four cubes meet. A grid of any size needs a mix of all three.

It depends on the shape of your grid, and it is genuinely easy to get wrong by eye — running short of four-corner pieces is the usual mistake. Tell us the layout you are building and we will work the mix out for you. Multi-cube packs already include the right combination.

Yes. Connectors are friction fits with no glue and no screws, so a grid can be pulled apart and rebuilt in a different shape as often as you like. Nothing is consumed in the process.

PETG, printed at 0.2 mm layer height. PETG over PLA because it keeps its shape in a warm room or on a sunlit wall, where PLA will eventually sag.

PETG is considerably more UV-stable than PLA, but no untreated plastic is immune to years of direct sunlight. For a wall that gets hard direct sun all day, black is the safest long-term choice.

Yes, and deliberately so — these are printed parts and they look like printed parts. Faces are oriented so layer lines run consistently. If you want a flawless injection-moulded finish, this is not that product.

Not yet. Laser-cut acrylic front covers are on the roadmap, and they are the add-on we most want to get right — acrylic rather than printed plastic, so the clarity is actually good. Cubes are open-fronted for now.

Not on sale yet. Backlit panels have been prototyped but are not production-ready, so we are not selling them. They are designed to retrofit into cubes you buy today.

There is no mount in the range yet. The planned version keys a grid onto an Ikea pegboard, so a wall build needs no drilling and no wall damage. Until then, grids are shelf and cabinet pieces.

That is the whole point of the system, and it is the constraint every new part has to satisfy before it ships. Nothing we add later should make what you already own obsolete.

It is a hobby project rather than a company, run by people with day jobs and a few printers. Orders are real and we will look after you, but please be patient: we are small, the range is growing slowly, and things take days rather than hours.

Parts are printed to order rather than pulled from stock, so there is a genuine make time before dispatch. Current lead time is confirmed with you by email when you order — and if a batch is going to be slow, we will tell you before you pay rather than after.

Exact figures being finalised.

Shipping destinations and rates are confirmed by email before payment. Prices on this site are in USD and exclude shipping.

Exact figures being finalised.

Cube and multi-cube pack prices are final. A few items are still tagged "indicative" — those are working figures we will confirm with you before taking payment. Shipping is quoted separately either way, since it depends on where you are.

Tell us and we will make it right. Because parts are printed in-house, replacing a single cube or connector is straightforward and quick — you will not be sent back a whole set.

Exact figures being finalised.

Yes, and this is worth an email rather than a web order. Batch printing means larger quantities are meaningfully cheaper per unit, and we can do a consistent single-batch colour run. Be aware that a large order will take us a while.